A long travel kit for the Can-Am Maverick X3 replaces the stock A-arms, radius rods, and shock springs with wider, longer-travel components built to soak up whoops and G-outs at speed without bottoming out. Maverick X3 owners running dunes or high-speed desert trails need more suspension travel and a wider stance than the factory geometry gives them, which is why this build looks different from a trail-only RZR or KRX setup.
- A long travel kit Can-Am Maverick X3 owners actually need pairs forward-offset A-arms with matched radius rods, not just longer shocks.
- Mismatched radius rod length is the #1 reason long travel kits bind at full droop in 2026 builds.
- Limit straps are not optional on a long travel X3 - they're what keeps CV axles and brake lines intact at full extension.
- A dual-rate spring kit fixes bottoming out but does not add travel by itself - it's a companion upgrade, not a substitute.
Why long travel matters for Maverick X3 owners
Stock Maverick X3 suspension is tuned for a factory ride height and a stock A-arm width. Push it hard through whoops at dune speed and the stock geometry runs out of travel before the terrain runs out of bumps - that's when you feel the harsh bottom-out through the seat and the chassis.
A properly built long travel kit changes three things at once: A-arm width and offset, radius rod length, and spring rate. Change only one of those and you get a suspension that either binds up at full droop or still bottoms out at full compression. Sidewinder A-Arms with 1.5-inch forward offset exist specifically to solve the geometry problem, but they only work correctly when the radius rods and shock length are matched to them.
A long travel kit that skips radius rod matching is a comfort upgrade, not a real long travel build. That's the sentence to remember before you spend money on parts.
Build a long travel kit for your Maverick X3, step by step
1. Measure your current ride height and travel numbers
Before ordering anything, get a baseline. You can't judge whether new A-arms and radius rods fixed anything if you don't know where you started.
- Measure ride height at all four corners with the vehicle level and unloaded
- Cycle each shock by hand and note where it binds or hits a stop
- Check for uneven tire wear, a sign of camber or toe issues from worn stock bushings
- Photograph the stock A-arm and radius rod mounting points before removal
- Note your current tire size - it changes your effective ride height
2. Choose your A-arm width and offset
Wider A-arms with forward offset are what actually create more usable travel and a wider stance for stability at speed. This is the step that separates a real long travel build from a spring swap.
- Decide how much additional width you can run without exceeding trail or dune restrictions
- Confirm ball joint and tie rod compatibility with your chosen A-arm set
- Check whether your current wheels clear the new A-arm width, or if you need spacers
- Inspect stock A-arm bushings for wear while everything is apart anyway
- Verify the A-arm kit ships with matched hardware, not just the arms themselves
3. Match radius rod length to the new A-arm geometry
Radius rods control trailing arm angle, and the wrong length binds the suspension at full droop no matter how good the A-arms are. This is where most DIY long travel builds go wrong.
- Confirm radius rod length matches the A-arm manufacturer's spec, not a generic length
- Check for 64-inch billet radius rods if your build calls for standard length, or a 72-inch option if you're running a wider stance
- Inspect rod end angles at full compression and full droop before final torque
- Torque to factory spec and re-check after the first ride, not before
- Grease heim joints or rod ends on the schedule the manufacturer states
4. Pick spring rates for your rig's actual weight
Springs that were fine stock get overwhelmed fast once you add a passenger, fuel, and gear. This step is where a lot of X3 owners feel the difference immediately.
- Weigh your rig loaded the way you actually ride it, not empty
- Compare that number against stock spring rate before assuming you need a change
- A dual rate spring kit for Fox shocks softens small-bump compliance while still resisting bottom-out on the big hits - a single-rate spring can't do both
- Cycle the shock through full travel by hand after installing new springs to confirm no coil bind
- Recheck ride height after spring changes - it shifts even with the same shock
5. Add limit straps before you hit the dunes
Longer travel means the suspension can extend further than stock, and that extra droop puts real strain on CV axles, brake lines, and sway bar links that were never designed to stretch that far.
- Install limit straps on every corner running extended travel, not just the front
- Set strap length so the axle stops just short of full CV joint articulation
- Check brake line and ABS wire routing at full droop with the vehicle on a lift
- Re-torque strap mounting hardware after the first hard ride
- Inspect straps for fraying every season - they take real load repeatedly
6. Check tire and wheel clearance
Wider A-arms and more travel change what fits without rubbing, especially at full steering lock and full compression.
- Turn the wheel fully in both directions with the vehicle raised to check fender and A-arm clearance
- Compress the suspension fully by hand or on a lift to check for tire-to-fender contact
- Confirm wheel offset still clears the new A-arms - Can-Am HD11 1.5 wheel spacers fix minor clearance gaps without changing bearing load the way a bigger offset wheel would
- Match tire compound to terrain - a hard-terrain tire like the Tusk Terrabite behaves differently on loose sand than a paddle tire
- Recheck lug torque after the first 20-30 miles on new wheel spacing
7. Recheck drivetrain angles after the lift
Any change to A-arm geometry shifts CV axle angle, and steep angles at speed shorten axle life fast.
- Check CV boot condition after the first few rides post-install
- Listen for clicking at full steering lock, a sign of an axle angle that's too steep
- Confirm the differential mount hasn't shifted if the kit included a drop bracket
- Grease all new pivot points on the manufacturer's interval, not just at install
Long travel options for the Maverick X3, compared
| Option | Best for | Key limitation | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Forward-offset A-arms | Riders who want a wider stance and more real travel, not just a taller ride | Requires matched radius rods to work correctly | Buy |
| Billet radius rods (64" or 72") | Owners pairing new A-arms with the correct rod length | Wrong length binds the suspension at full droop | Buy |
| Dual-rate spring kit | Riders bottoming out under load with a passenger or gear | Doesn't add travel or fix geometry on its own | Hold - pair with A-arms |
| Limit strap kit | Any long travel build, full stop | Not a suspension upgrade by itself, it's protection for other parts | Buy |
Common mistakes Maverick X3 owners make with long travel kits
- Buying A-arms and radius rods from different systems. Mixing brands without matching geometry specs is the fastest way to end up with a suspension that binds at full droop.
- Skipping limit straps to save a step. Extended droop without straps puts direct strain on CV axles and brake lines that stock parts were never built to handle.
- Upgrading springs before fixing geometry. A dual rate spring kit helps ride quality, but it doesn't create the extra travel a wide A-arm and matched radius rod setup delivers.
- Ignoring tire and wheel clearance until after install. Wider A-arms change what fits at full steering lock, and finding that out on the trail costs a day of riding.
- Not re-torquing hardware after the first ride. New components seat in during the first hard ride, and skipping the follow-up check is how bolts back out mid-season.
FAQ
What does a long travel kit actually change on a Can-Am Maverick X3?
A long travel kit replaces the stock A-arms, radius rods, and often the shock springs to widen the stance and increase usable suspension travel. Changing only one of those parts without matching the others usually causes binding or continued bottom-out.
Do I need new radius rods if I install long travel A-arms?
Yes - radius rod length has to match the new A-arm geometry or the suspension binds at full droop. This is the single most common mistake in DIY long travel builds on the Maverick X3.
Are limit straps required on a long travel Maverick X3?
Limit straps are effectively required once you extend travel beyond stock, because CV axles, brake lines, and sway bar links weren't designed for the extra droop. Skipping them risks damaging those components on the first hard hit.
Will a dual-rate spring kit fix bottoming out by itself?
A dual-rate spring kit reduces bottoming out under load but doesn't add suspension travel or change A-arm geometry on its own. It works best paired with a long travel A-arm and radius rod setup, not as a standalone fix.
How much wider does a long travel kit make the Maverick X3?
Width depends on the specific A-arm offset chosen, and forward-offset A-arms like the ones built for the Maverick X3 add stance beyond the stock track width. Check trail or dune width restrictions before finalizing an offset in 2026.
What tire works best with a long travel Maverick X3 build?
Tire choice depends on terrain more than travel - a hard-terrain radial handles rock and hardpack differently than a sand-specific tire. Match compound to where you actually ride, not just to the new suspension geometry.
Can I install a long travel kit myself or do I need a shop?
Experienced UTV owners with a lift and basic hand tools can install A-arms, radius rods, and limit straps at home, but alignment and torque specs matter more on a long travel build than a stock swap. A shop check after the first ride is worth it if you're not confident on the alignment step.
Does a long travel kit affect CV axle life on the Maverick X3?
Yes - changed A-arm geometry shifts CV axle angle, and steep angles at speed shorten axle life. Checking CV boot condition and listening for clicking at full steering lock in the weeks after install catches problems early.
One last thing
The part of a long travel build that gets skipped most often isn't the A-arms or the springs - it's the limit strap. Riders spend real money on geometry and then leave the axles unprotected at full extension, which is the exact failure point a $25-30 strap kit exists to prevent. If your 2026 build budget is tight, protect the geometry investment you already made before adding anything else.